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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. Yet, nestled high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.